Voyaging Village 2024 Week 2: Ao Nang, Krabi, Thailand
Culture shock, 4 islands and feeling like Elsa
Today we leave the peaceful streets of Chiang Rai and head south to Ao Nang, in Krabi Province. Our day starts with one last visit to our favorite buffet, a daily joy for the past two weeks. It’s hard to say goodbye to something that feels like home, but it’s time to move on.
Before heading to the airport, we make a quick stop at Powra Farm for the second time. Just five minutes away, we discovered earlier this week that this café has baby bunnies and the friendliest koi fish we’ve ever met. So we come again to say goodbye. Papa Bear’s “cute aggression” toward the bunnies inspires our friend’s son to copy him, amusing everyone. Meanwhile, I dip my hand into the stream, savoring one last round of koi kisses. What a great way to wrap up our time in Chiang Rai!
From Chiang Rai to Ao Nang
At Chiang Rai airport, we’re surprised to find a lounge at the domestic gate. The lounge is tiny and feels like standing-room-only in some areas. But it still offers a buffet. We hold off on using our lounge passes here, saving them so we can bring our Voyaging Village friends into the lounge in Bangkok, where we know something better awaits.
The Bangkok airport feels oddly familiar. We seem to arrive at the same gate as last time and navigate like pros to the Coral Lounge. First, we grab massage cards for everyone, the 15-minute massages are the highlight. Then, we relax with colorful cocktails and find a new treasure: ice cream!
The kids dive into a game of Uno while we sip our drinks. A debate breaks out as we learn from the official rules that you can’t chain +2 cards. Whoops! Turns out, we’ve been making our own rules all along.
The golf cart in Ao Nang
Our apartment in Ao Nang surprises us with a steep hill that requires golf cart access. No, there’s no actual golf—just a steep incline that’s easier to navigate with wheels. Our friends are staying across the street, in a different place with its own pool to explore.
From our hilltop perch, we enjoy a peaceful view of the town while still being close to the bustling main street. It’s the perfect balance of quiet and convenience.
Culture Shock
Ao Nang Beach is nothing like Chiang Rai. In Chiang Rai, we were surrounded by locals going about their daily lives. Here, it’s a mix of European, Indian, and Chinese tourists. Thai locals are here too, but only working in hospitality. It’s a stark reminder of how tourism changes a place.
Four Islands Adventure
The next day, we set off on a private longtail boat to explore Ao Nang’s famous Four Islands. Longtail boats are a staple here. These wooden boats feature a motor mounted on a long pole that extends the propeller far behind the boat. This unique design allows for incredible maneuverability, even in shallow waters.
The Four Islands typically included in the tour from Ao Nang are:
Chicken Island (Koh Gai) - Known for its unique rock formation resembling a chicken.
Poda Island (Koh Poda) - Famous for its white sandy beaches and turquoise waters.
Tup Island (Koh Tub) - Connected to Chicken Island by a sandbar that appears during low tide.
Phra Nang Cave Beach (on Railay Peninsula) - Renowned for its caves, limestone cliffs, and crystal-clear waters.
The snorkeling here is ok. There is lots of fish but no corals at all. But we do enjoy the beautiful karst islands and the picture it makes against the turquoise waters. The towering karst formations remind us of Ha Long Bay in Vietnam.
Dinner at Railay Beach
As the sun begins to set, our boat takes us to Railay Beach for dinner. Unfortunately, the clouds block the sunset, but the beach’s beauty shines through.
We grab front row seats for the sunset at a beach restaurant and bar. Our friends try to order cocktails, but the server says, “No alcohol. Not allowed” What? We’re told to buy drinks from a bar next door. It’s baffling—why wouldn’t a restaurant in a highly touristy area want to sell high-margin drinks? Turns out, we will come to solve this mystery two weeks later. Can you guess why this restaurant doesn’t serve alcohol? I’ll share the answer at the end of this post.
We dig into grilled sea bass and barracuda. I like barracuda, it has tendon-like texture of beef tendon. The freshly caught sea bass has wood fired flavor. The highlight is the cup of melted garlic butter that everything is served with.
Then, something unexpected happens. A bright blue macaw parrot appears out of nowhere and perches on top of the umbrella near us. It refuses to leave, ignoring the staff’s attempts to coax it down. Tourists, including us, whip out our cameras to capture the surreal moment. The parrot stays just long enough for its photoshoot with the tourists, then flies off into the distance tree, what a magical moment.
Swimming in Fairy Dust
The highlight of our boat trip is coming up next. There are bioluminescent plankton in these waters, and I discovered this through an obscure internet search. Because this is not listed at all at any of the 300 tour info booths littering the streets of Ao Nang Beach.
I was very excited about this discovery though, and arranged a customized tour that combines the Four Islands with the plankton.
We’ve seen bioluminescent plankton before. In the Puerto Rico, we kayaked through glowing green water as our paddles cut through the sea. In the Philippines at Puerto Princesa, we cruised through mangroves at night, watching the plankton glow alongside fireflies twinkling in the trees.
But this? This is about to top them all.
The boat arrives at the spot, turning off all its lights. Only one other boat floats nearby. Most tourists don’t even know about this experience. We lean over the side, staring into the pitch-black water. Doubt creeps in—what if there’s nothing?
The captain sees us hesitate, scoops up some seawater with a bucket and splashes it onto the boat floor. The floor lights up in bursts of electric blue. He smiles poudly, probably thinking “there’s your proof, now get in.”
We leap into the water, excitement bubbling over. As we move our hands and feet, the plankton comes alive, glowing like tiny stars in a dark sky. Underwater, it’s even better. I dive a little deeper, where the darkness amplifies the magic. Everywhere I wave, the water lights up.
I feel like Elsa from Frozen, casting glowing spells under the sea. Every motion leaves a shimmering trail, and it feels like we’re swimming in a world made of stardust.
It’s pure magic, and unlike anything we’ve experienced before.
Unfortunately, it’s not possible to capture photos of this, so you’ll have to imagine it!
Why no alcohol?
Are you ready for the answer to why no alcohol at the restaurant?
It’s a Muslim-owned Halal restaurant and alcohol is prohibited in Islam. In Ao Nang we are very close to Malaysia, where it’s 64% Muslim. In fact, almost all the tour desks in Ao Nang Beach are run by Muslim women in hijabs.
What a great way to wrap the first full day at Ao Nang beach. The rest of the week will be relax and work. But next weekend we plan to get on another snorkel trip, stay tuned.