Lake Toya and the Journey to Hakodate
Bears, Boats, and Burgers
Today we are making our way to Hakodate, on the Southern Tip of Hokkaido. Hakodate is actually connected to Honshu, the main island of Japan by bullet train and is the entryway into Hokkaido, but we are doing this in reverse, coming in from the North.
Leaving Noborietsu, we first stop at Mt Usu, a volcano that overlooks the famous Lake Toya. But it’s cloudy, so we don’t go up the cable car. That’s not why we’re here anyways. We’re here to visit shōwa-shinzan bear ranch, which shares the same parking lot. This region is home to brown bears, and there are quite a few zoos and ranches in the area, including one in Noborietsu, but as that one is super expensive, we choose to come here instead.
It’s pretty awesome.
Shōwa-shinzan Bear Ranch 昭和新山熊牧場
Papa Bear is very excited for the visit the Bear Ranch today, after all, we are named the Bear Family because of Papa Bear’s love for bears. The ranch sits at the base of Shōwa-shinzan volcano—yes, an actual still-smoking volcano. It’s one of the youngest mountains in Japan, formed from an eruption in 1943. Imagine that: a place that combines the power of nature with the irresistible cuteness of bears!
Hokkaido’s brown bears, also known as Ussuri brown bears, are among the largest in the world. We make our way to the main bear area, where dozens of these massive creatures lounge and play. Feeding the bears is one of the big attractions here—they sell bear cookies out of vending machines everywhere. We have a blast watching the bears stand on their hind legs, paws outstretched to catch treats. Some even make "waving" motions, as if they are personally asking, “More snacks, please!” It’s amazing how quickly they learn to work the crowd. We oblige and try to throw accurately. We are rewarded by bears snatching the cookie out of the air, or catching it in their giant paws. Most are not very good at caching the cookies, but there are a few very impressive experts.
After feeding the larger bears, we head back to watch the baby bears play. So cute.
Mama Bear has mixed feelings about this bear ranch. The enclosures are big for some of the bears, but many are living in very close quarters. Except for ponds, the enclosures have very few trees, shade, or other natural features that make it feel at home for the bears. We wish that they get a habitat upgrade as more visitors come to see them.
Lake Toya
We love the variety that Hokkaido offers: from dramatic volcanic landscapes to serene lakeside escapes, there's always something new to experience. One of our favorite spots is Lake Tōya (洞爺湖), a stunning caldera lake that seems to blend untouched nature with just the right touch of human warmth.
First, we stop for some lunch at the lakeside restaurant. There is a line at the upstairs restaurant for the window view, so we stop downstairs to start with their famous fried sweet potato dessert. Then our table is ready and we enjoy some top-shelf Tonkatsu and scallop miso soup, steamed egg, and scallop rice! All for less than $30.
As we approach the lake we see a castle floating on it. The castle moves towards us and docks. Tourists pour out of it. It’s a boat!
As we walk along the lake we find a free footbath. So stop for a break. Then take photos in their selfie spots.
Lake Tōya is a large, circular lake that never freezes—even in the depths of Hokkaido’s long winters. It is one of Japan's clearest lakes, and its mirror-like surface perfectly reflects the sky and surrounding mountains. There’s something incredibly calming about standing on its shores, listening to the gentle lap of the waves and breathing in the fresh mountain air. We take a nap on the lawn. Little did we know that the cicadas are going strong today, and all summer. One stops in the tree directly on top of us and makes a huge racket. Being so close makes it feel extra loud. We can’t really fall asleep, but it’s still nice to lie down for a while.
The Visitor Center
Near Lake Tōya, the Toya-Usu Geopark Visitor Center is an excellent place to stop for more information about the area. It is located in the Toyako Onsen (洞爺湖温泉) area, just a short distance from the lake's shore. The visitor center offers detailed exhibits about the geology, history, and volcanic activity of the Lake Tōya and Mount Usu region. The displays are great. We get to press buttons to hear the song of various local birds, see samples of all the trees, and much much more.
The View
Near Lake Tōya, one notable landmark is the Usuzen-dake Sancho Observatory (有珠山頂展望台), which offers panoramic views of Lake Tōya, Mount Usu, and the surrounding areas. Papa Bear enjoys a massage from Baby Bear at the view.
My favorite part of this stop though is the gift shop. We have been seeing the Shima Enaga, “snow fairly,” featured on many souvenirs. But I have not seen the actual bird nor able to hug it. And I really really want to. The gift shop gives us this opportunity with giant plushie versions. Finally my craving is satisfied!!
Satisfied with our adventure filled day, we head to Hakodate to spend the next few nights!